The field of RC has several different facets; there’s really something for all. One of several areas I’ve set my sights on mastering is definitely the drift segment. It basically goes against everything I’ve learned with regards to driving sliding is preferable to grip, more power does not necessarily mean a quicker vehicle and tire compounds, well, plastic surpasses rubber. So when 3Racing sent over their Axial SCX10, I needed to scoop one as much as see what all of the hoopla was with this particular drifter.
AT A GLANCE
WHO Can Make It: 3Racing
WHO IT’S FOR: Any amount of drift enthusiast
PART NUMBER: KIT-D4AWD
Simply How Much: $115.00
BUILD TYPE: Kit
• AWD for quick learning ?
• Narrow 3mm FRP chassis ?
• Wide, high-angle dual bellcrank steering ?
• Highly adjustable front, Y-arm suspension ?
• Battery positioning ahead of the motor or in the rear diffuser ?
• Aluminum motor mount ?
• Threaded shocks ?Plenty of tuning adjustment ?
• Extremely affordable pric
• Front drive belt slips away from the roller bearing
This drifter has quite a bit opting for it; well manufactured, lots of pretty aluminum and rolls in in a very affordable price. Handling is nice as well as soon as you get accustomed to the kit setup, and it accepts an incredibly great deal of body styles. There’s also a lot of tunability for people who like to tinker, so this car should grow with you as the skills do.
The D4’s chassis is a 3mm sheet of FRP, or Fiber-Reinforced Plastic. It provides cutouts at the base for that front and back diffs to peek through as well as a bazillion countersunk holes. Many of these can be used as mounting such things as the bulkheads, servo and battery box, but there are a number of left empty. They are often helpful to control chassis flex, although not with the stock top deck; an optional you need to be obtained. The layout is comparable to a normal touring car; front bulkhead/ suspension, steering system, electronics, battery box, motor mount system lastly the rear bulkhead/ suspension. Everything is readily accessible and replaceable with only a few turns of some screws.
? Besides a few interesting pieces, a drifter’s suspension is nearly the same as a touring car’s. An individual A and D mount and separate B and C mounts are utilized, both having dual support screws and stamped, metal shims to increase them up. The suspension arms have droop screws, anti-roll bar mounts and adjustable wheelbase shims. The back suspension uses vertical ball studs to manage camber and roll even though the front uses an appealing, dual pickup front Y-arm setup. This product allows the adjustment of camber, caster and roll and swings smoothly on upper and lower pivot balls. It’s actually quite unique and permits some extreme camber settings.
? One important thing that’s pretty amazing with drift cars will be the serious amount of steering throw they already have. Beginning with the bellcranks, they’re positioned as far apart and also as near the edges in the chassis as you possibly can. This results in a massive 65° angle, enough to regulate the D4 in including the deepest of slides. Since drifters spend nearly all of their time sideways, I wanted an excellent servo to keep up with the constant countersteering enter Futaba’s S9551 Low-Pro? le Digital Servo.
Whilst not needing anything near its 122 oz. of torque, the .11 speed is de? nitely enough to take care of any steering angle changes I want it a moment’s notice.
? The D4 uses a dual belt design, spinning a front, fluid-filled gear differential and rear spool. A massive, 92T 48P spur is linked to the central gear shaft, in which the front and back belts meet. Pulleys keep your front belt high over the chassis, and 3mm CVDs transfer the power to the wheels. Standardized 12mm hexes are included to enable the use of a selection of different wheel and tire combos.
? To provide the D4 a bit of beauty, I prefered 3Racing Wraith parts body from ABC Hobby. This really is a beautiful replica of this car and included a slick group of decals, looking fantastic once mounted. I wasn’t sure the best way to paint it, nevertheless i do remember an approach I used a little while back that got some attention. So, I gave the RX-3 an attempt of pearl white in the underside, but painted the fenders black externally. After everything was dry, I shot the outer by using a coat of Tamiya Flat Clear. I love the ultimate result … and it was easy. That’s good because I’m a really impatient painter!
ON THE TRACK
For this particular test, I needed the privilege of putting this four-wheel drifter on the iconic Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo, CA. I was heading there to accomplish an image shoot for an additional vehicle and thought, heck, why not take it along and have some sideways action?
The steering on the D4 is quite amazing. While I mentioned earlier, the throw can be a whopping 65 degrees with zero interference from any parts. The CVD’s can turn that far, allowing smooth input of power at full lock. Even though it does look a little bit funny with the tires turned that far (remember, I’m a touring car guy), the D4 does a wonderful job of keeping the slide controlled and moving in the appropriate direction. This can be, in part, due to the awesome handling from the D4, but also the speedy Futaba servo.
Drifting is not about overall speed but wheel speed controlled. I am aware that sounds odd, but when you’ve mastered the wheel speed of the drifter, you are able to control the angle of attack along with the sideways motion through any corner. I found Novak’s Drift Spec system allowed me to perform just that make controlled, smooth throttle modifications to affect the angle of your D4 where and when I needed. Sliding in a little shallow? Add more throttle to have the tail end to whip out. Beginning to over cook the corner? Ease up a bit and also the D4 would get right back in line. It’s all an issue of ? nesse, as well as the Novak system is designed for that. I did so really need to be a bit creative with the install in the system on account of small space about the chassis, but overall it figured out great.
After driving hooked up touring cars for some time, it can do take a little getting used to knowing that a car losing grip and sliding is the right way round the track. It’s also good practice for managing throttle control once you buy it, it’s beautiful. Having a car and pitching it sideways by way of a sweeper, at the same time keeping the nose pointed in at under 2 or 3 inches from the curb … it’s actually very rewarding. It’s a controlled uncontrollable thing, as well as the D4 can it wonderfully. The kit setup is great, but if you feel just like you need more of something anything there’s lots of points to adjust. I just enjoyed the car together with the kit setup and yes it was just a matter of battery power pack or two before I used to be swinging the rear around the hairpins, throughout the carousel and forward and backward through the chicane. I never had an opportunity to strap battery about the diffuser, but that’s something I’m looking towards.
There’s not much that you can do to damage a drift car they’re really not going everything that fast. I have done, however, come with an trouble with the front belt’s bearing pulley mounted to the top level deck. In the initial run, it suddenly felt such as the D4 acquired a little drag brake. I kept by using it, seeking to overcome the issue with driving, but soon were required to RPM Traxxas slash parts it into actually look it over. During the build, the belt slips in to a plastic ‘tunnel’ that may be maintained by a bearing, keeping it above any chassis mounted items like the ESC or servo. The belt, though, doesn’t sit square about the bearing; it’s half on and half off. So, if the drivetrain is spooling up, the belt will sometimes slide from the bearing, ?opping around and catching on anything it comes in touch with. To ?x this, I simply 3raccingSakura a lengthier screw with a couple of 1mm shims to space the bearing out a little bit more. Problem solved.